East Texas

By KELLY PREW And LAUREN KEATON

There's something to be said about a quaint little town, nestled among the pastures and tree lines of deep East Texas, and Edom is just such a place.

It's quiet there, and the facades of little shops and stops are familiar, something you might see in a country living magazine. But there are a few surprises, too, including the fact the local bakery employs a professional chef.

Jackson York has served as the certified executive chef at Edom Bakery and Grill full time for two years, and his goal is to educate a community and promote healthy options in the kitchen with the blessing of owners Bud and Annie Berry.

"I came out here as a consultant chef," York says. "Once a month we would have a gourmet dining evening. Every time they would try to talk me into staying. They would say 'are you ready yet?' And I would say 'no.'

"And then two years ago, I said 'I think I'm ready.'"

The Berrys retired to Edom from Dallas and found an opportunity with the bakery, keeping York in mind to orchestrate the daily culinary offerings.

"We bought this building and renovated it and were going to rent it out," Bud says. "There was so much anticipation of there being a bakery in town, so we decided that we could do it.

"For this part of East Texas, we like to think we have really good, fancy food. Especially in a rural area where your normal fare is home cooked chicken fried steak. We try to offer more healthy, sophisticated food."

York says the initial reaction to the menu brought mixed reviews, but now folks travel the 25 miles to the country for something special.

"We revamped the dinner menu," he says. "I get ripped a lot because I will not go to chicken fried steak or fried catfish. They say 'you have catfish' -- yeah, but I will not fry it."

York says there are other places in the area that serve the fried favorites, but insists once they get a taste of what the Edom Bakery and Grill has to offer, they come back.

"That's the way we're different," he says. "We're thinking healthier out here, and we're asking the community what we can do."

York believes in sharing his talents, whether with starter cooks or true culinary students. That's why he teaches at area community colleges and now serves as the Director of the East Texas chapter of the Texas Chefs Association.

In that vein, his ideas for community cooking have taken off.

Once a month, a recipe is chosen from a customer submission. The chosen cook then has the opportunity to serve as "guest chef" for a night of gourmet dining at the bakery.

"People drop in their favorite recipe and if we pick it, they come in and make it and they are the guest chef for the evening," York says. "It is fun thing."

A seven-week cooking school held at the bakery teaches "everything A to Z," according to York.

"We give them an introduction to tools, everything you would want to have in the kitchen, and then we move on to sauces and salads, butchery, entres and desserts," York says. "The owner, Bud Berry, comes in and gives a lesson on wine."

There are other plans in the pike for a two-year school that would offer student programming seven days a week. But it is good to note York is serious about his craft, and encourages those who seek a career in the culinary arts to be well informed.

"Cooking is theory, just like music is theory," he says. "I tell people if you are really serious about being in this business get a job in a kitchen for three months -- it's not as easy at it looks."

Folks often ask for advice, too. He gets questions about how to prepare sauces, soups and techniques for sauting certain things. He's not shy about it, either, holding a chef's night once in a while.

"That's when I like to show off," York smiles. "With the exception of the steak, it's all around $8 per plate. So it works out."

The current menu, although popular with regulars and passers by, will see a few changes in the fall, including the addition of a stuffed flounder. The bakery's pies will remain the No. 1 priority, and encouraging folks to stop in for coffee and a pastry rather than coffee and donuts down the road.

Incorporating seafood into the weekly fare is important, too, and York says customers are always calling to find out the fish of the week or what seafood specials he's planning.

"Around here, it's usually catfish or catfish, and I want to bring in new things," he says. "For example, last week I had a fresh Hawaiian (variety)."

But if you want something truly designed by York from his culinary roots, looking for the Italian specials might be the answer.

"My favorite thing to cook is Italian food," he says. "Half because it's my ancestry, and half because it's a very popular cuisine that everyone adapts to."

York's favorite dish? Fettuccini Alfredo.

"It's rich, it's quick, it serves is purpose by filling you up," he grins.

His best advice for all cooks is simple. Never get too comfortable.

"I always try to tell them, taste everything before it goes out," he says. "Even if you've cooked something a lot, don't assume it tastes the same every time."

Off-menu item to order: Pasta OliOli -- a pasta dish made with fresh garlic, parsley and olive oil

Cool tip: Baked goods, including melt-in-your-mouth traditional pies, cakes and cookies are available all day, so even if you're just passing through, picking something up is worth it.

Web site: www.edombakery.com

Get all the information for daily and weekly specials, menu changes, recipes and an e-mail link for more on culinary classes and registration

Contact: 903-852-5552

Hours: Call or check the Web site for fall and winter hours and hours for special events.

To get there: Take State Highway 64 from Tyler. Take a left onto Highway 279 to Edom. The bakery is located in the center of town on the left at the intersection of Hwy. 279 and Farm-to-Market Road 314.

Courtesy Jackson York

Serves 6

Saute your diced onion in oil until clear. Add enough flour to pick up the onions, or stiffen it up. Add your tomato juice and bring to a boil. Add heavy cream plus fresh basil. Finish by checking for salt and pepper. If a little too thin, then boil for about 5 to 7 minutes until desired consistency.

Certified Executive Chef Jackson York
(Staff Photo By Tom Turner)